In Search of Solitude and 26-Inch Walleye in Minnesota's Northwest Angle
Getting off the grid just got a glow-up
The Northwest Angle is not only the northernmost destination in the contiguous U.S., but also one of its most remote. Separated from the rest of Minnesota by the vast Lake of the Woods, it can be reached only by taking a 40-mile boat trip or crossing the Canadian border, driving north, and then heading back into the U.S.
All thanks to an 18th-century mapping error and the Treaty of Paris.
For me, remote was the point. I wanted an adventure free of cell service and traffic noise — somewhere I could hear myself think and be rewarded with everything from mind-bending historic sites to fantastic walleye fishing.
—Riley Hallaway
DAY ONE
11:00 a.m.
Take a pit stop for Philly Cheesesteak
I left the Twin Cities bright and early, making my first stop the Road Runner Bar & Grill in Kelliher, a small town about four hours north. That day, it was just the local UPS delivery driver and me grabbing lunch. I heeded my server’s recommendation to get a Philly cheesesteak, which came sizzling hot, with a side of super-crispy fries.
Fueled up, I got back in the car to make the last six hours of my drive.
Road Runner Bar & Grill
Address: 321 Clark Ave, Kelliher, MN 56650
Hours: Open 11 a.m.–8 p.m. Monday, Wednesday, Thursday and Sunday; 11 a.m.–9 p.m. Friday and Saturday. Closed Tuesday.
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1:00 p.m.
Savor the scenery
As the idiom goes, it’s the journey, not the destination. The drive to the Northwest Angle took me through towering coniferous forests (biome nerds, unite) and a complex network of lakes.
A few passing thunderstorms seemed to draw out the local wildlife, and a small black bear darted across the road in front of me as I drove around Lower Red Lake. Fear not; both the cub and I were unharmed in the making of this itinerary.
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6:40 p.m.
Clear customs and board a boat to paradise
There was no line at Canadian customs. The agent simply checked my passport, and I was on my way. By this time, I’d long lost cell service, so I’d recommend printing or downloading all your maps offline before you leave home.
After winding through gravel roads, I crossed back into Minnesota and headed up to Young Bay’s Resort. There, I checked in at the U.S. customs kiosk (located inside Jerry’s Restaurant and Lounge, where local fisherman were extolling their daily catches) and showed them my information.
Total time in Canada? Sixty-six minutes. You tell me whether or not that makes this an “international” trip.
Young’s Bay is one of the most popular starting points for fishing trips in this area. If you’re traveling to one of the many fishing resorts on Lake of the Woods, this is where you will park your car and be picked up by your fishing guide.
I purchased a parking pass from the resort, which cost about $9 for two nights, then made my way to the docks to be picked up via boat by Wyatt, whose family owns the fishing resort I’d be staying at. On the way to the docks, I passed the famous stone buoy statue that marks the northernmost point in the contiguous U.S.
Fun fact: you’ll find a nearly identical marker in Key West, Florida, marking the southernmost point. Traveling between them would be an epic road trip.
Young’s Bay Resort
Address: 7600 Young's Bay Dr NW, Angle Inlet, MN 56711
Hours: Open 7 a.m.–8 p.m. daily. Closed throughout November and April.
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8:15 p.m.
Reach an island fishing resort
Fresh out of high school, Wyatt told me he had been working in the family business forever. After about a 15-minute boat ride, we arrived at his family’s fishing resort, The Inn at Hennum’s Oak Island Lodge. Hennum’s is truly remote, and while cell service was spotty, the wi-fi signal was great.
After dropping my bags in my room, Wyatt gave me a quick tour of the resort. I’m used to hearing the hum of traffic daily. But at Hennum’s, the only sounds were trees rustling, birds chirping, and calm waves lapping the shore.
The lodge is a true log cabin-style building. It’s cozy, inviting, and offers a great view of the lake no matter where you sit. The menu at the restaurant featured classic American bar food and local favorites like walleye.
I was in the mood for something greasy and heavy, so I opted for the Smokehouse Burger with fries.
Hennum’s Oak Island Lodge
Address: 820 Oak Island, Lake of the Woods, MN 56741
Hours: Open daily from 7–10 a.m. for breakfast, 11 a.m.–5 p.m. for lunch, and 5–9 p.m. for dinner.
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DAY TWO
7:30 a.m.
Reel it in on a guided fishing trip
I will be the first to admit I’m not an expert angler, but I met Wyatt at the docks the next morning for a fishing excursion, excited and ready to learn. I already knew I was in safe hands, but when I noticed Wyatt didn’t need to look at the route he’d plotted on the boat’s GPS, I felt doubly reassured.
The skies were overcast, and the lake was a little choppy, but Wyatt told me that made for better fishing. “It wakes them up,” he said.
We stopped just off the coast of an island. “Look over there,” Wyatt said, gesturing behind me. I turned to see a dozen or more fishing boats speeding toward us in formation, confirming our choice of fishing spot.
Sure enough, no more than five minutes after dropping my line in the water, I had a bite. It was a sauger, a common fish closely related to walleye.
“Not something we usually keep,” Wyatt told me.
Wyatt added new bait to my hook for me, and I dropped my line in the water again. Not long after, I had another bite. This one felt huge. As I pulled it to the surface, Wyatt grabbed the net. It was a 26-inch walleye!
“I’ll keep that one,” Wyatt said, “Nice catch.”
As I looked around at the fleet of boats nearby, I saw other anglers reeling in fish, one after another. Wyatt was fishing too. He got a bite and told me to come over and reel this one in for him as he grabbed the net. This one I had to use my whole body to pull up (and I am not a small person).
As it hit the surface, Wyatt pulled it into the boat with the net: a 36-inch northern pike, the biggest fish I’ve ever caught.
All credit to Wyatt, though. He was the one who hooked it.
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11:30 a.m.
Eat lunch and live that lake life
After another hour or two pulling in walleye and sauger, Wyatt brought me back to the island. I grabbed a quick lunch at the lodge and took a long, peaceful walk around the resort grounds, then relaxed by the shore, knowing I had a jam-packed schedule the following day.
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WEDNESDAY
8:00 a.m.
Get some hands-on time with real northern history
Joe Laurin lives in a custom-built lighthouse with his dog, Mia, and I was lucky enough to join one of his private history boat tours of Lake of the Woods. They picked me up on a perfect, sunny 70-degree morning.
As we made our way across the lake, Joe told me about all the unique sites on the islands: 19th-century settlements, World War II POW camps, petroglyphs, pictographs, abandoned gold mines, and more.
He also took me to “Cheerio Beach,” an island where the small rocks on the shore develop holes in their middles — hence the name.
Magnuson’s Island was our next stop. This island is home to Fort St. Charles, a settlement built by French explorer and fur trader Sieur De La Verendrye in 1732, which was abandoned in the 1750s after the French-Indian War.
In 1960, the Minnesota Fourth Degree Knights of Columbus restored the fort. Visiting it solo was both insanely cool and slightly spooky.
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12:30 p.m.
Mimic a spy movie at the Canadian border
With my tour completed, I said goodbye to Wyatt, Joe and Mia, packed up my car at Young’s Bay and started my journey back to Minneapolis. The border checkpoint on the Canadian side isn’t your standard kiosk, but a phone booth along a dirt road in the middle of the woods. The windows were plastered with stickers from travelers.
On the wall of the phone booth was a black box. No need to dial a number. Wondering if I’d been secretly teleported into the middle of a Bond movie, I picked it up and was connected to Canadian customs.
After giving them my passport information, I was on my way to Warroad.
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2:00 p.m.
See some classic cars at the Shed
The Shed is a classic car collection featuring nearly 100 unique cars, including a 1933 Lincoln that Franklin D. Roosevelt rode in during his 1939 presidential campaign and a 1960 Corvette that was the first of the year off the production line.
After picking out my future dream vehicle, I returned to my (totally adequate, but way less fun) KIA and stopped at Lake of the Woods Coffee Company for a pick-me-up. I opted for the sweet cream cold brew. It was a perfect drink for the 80-degree day.
The Shed
Address: 1099 State Ave N, Warroad, MN 56763
Hours: According to its official site, “We love our visitors… If the green light is on, feel free to stop in, even if it's after hours.”
Lake of the Woods Coffee Company
Address: 102 Lake St NE Warroad, MN 56763
Hours: Open 7 a.m.–2 p.m. Monday through Wednesday and 7 a.m.–4 p.m. Thursday through Saturday. Closed Sunday.
